Sometimes, I go out and about with a specific sightseeing and/or photography goal in mind. Other times, things just happen!
The other day, I took afternoon tea at the St. Regis. While I was making inroads on the delicious sandwiches, scones, and pastries, I opened the book that is one of my ‘bibles’ for Florence, An Art Lover’s Guide to Florence by Judith Testa. This book has been wonderful on a couple of scores: informing me about what I’m seeing and focusing on the highlights, which keeps me from being completely overwhelmed by the art in this city. Testa provides historical background (I may actually be able to eventually keep the Medicis straight, thanks to her) and political, sexual, and religious perspectives on the artwork.
One of the chapters is devoted to the Sassetti Chapel in Santa Trinita. I’d passed this church many times and it was always closed, but when I wandered past there on my way to where I catch the bus home, it was open. I threw myself inside and hurried to the chapel. What makes the chapel noteworthy are the paintings of Domenico Ghirlandaio, including six paintings from the life of St. Francis. This not being an exposition on art, I won’t go into details; suffice it to say that it was fascinating to read Testa’s explanation of the paintings and sculptures in the chapel and look for the details she points out, including the visual pun of centaurs flinging small stones (sassetti) in the relief sculptures on the tombs of Francesco Sassetti and his wife Nera Corsi.
The chapel was dimly lit, but on the wall was one of the meters into which one feeds coins to turn on the lights. I don’t know if the other visitors didn’t notice it, but when I finished reading and was ready to look at the paintings on the walls, I fed money into the meter, the lights came on, and several people gasped! It was great.
Walking down the center aisle, I noticed stairs into the crypt. It was quite dark with minimal light coming through a grate in the ceiling, so I pulled out my phone flashlight to look around as I had run out of coins for the light meter. Fortunately, the family that came down a few minutes later put money in the meter and I was able to see better the beautiful arches of the ceiling.
Once out of the church, I was starting across Piazza di Santa Trinita when I noticed the glow of the late afternoon sun on a building. What was even better? Noticing the shadows of the workmen working on scaffolding in the piazza.
My serendipitous day ended with another shadow photo. Instead of waiting for my bus where I usually do, I went up a block to another stop because there were benches there. What a lovely arrangement of light and shadow!
Testa, Judith. An Art Lover’s Guide to Florence. Northern Illinois University Press. Kindle Edition.
Images © Melissa Corcoran.